Kinsale (Cionn tSáile, "head of the brine") is a small harbour in County Cork, Southwest Ireland. It's 25 km south of Cork city, at the mouth of the River Bandon, and in 2022 had a population of 6000. It's a tourist resort, popular for angling and sailing, and has a concentration of gourmet restaurants.
Understand
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Kinsale is a small sheltered harbour in the estuary of the river Bandon. It's popular with amateur sailors and sea-anglers, but is too small for ocean-going ships. But in bygone centuries with small craft, it was well-positioned for trade with France and Spain - and for dodging the attention of English warships patrolling the western Channel.
By 1600 the English controlled most of Ireland but the O'Neills of Ulster remained the last Irish opposition. They called for support from the Catholic continent and Spain weighed in. Several naval expeditions were beset by storms but in 1601 they managed to land troops at Kinsale - the wrong end of the country to help the O'Neills. They became bottled up there so the Irish marched south to join them and break the English siege. They were routed in the battle of 24 Dec 1601; the Spanish remained besieged for three months then surrendered, and were allowed to sail home. Irish rule was broken.
Another continental caller in 1689 was King James II & VII, ousted from the English throne but strongly supported in Ireland. He landed at Kinsale with French troops and marched north, to be beaten at the Battle of the Boyne. He scarpered down to Wexford then to Kinsale where he fled to France, leaving his Irish supporters to fight and die for a lost cause. So in terms of regnal number, that made him James II of England and Wales, VII of Scotland, and Séamus an Chaca of Ireland — "James the Shit".
In 1703 a band of privateers left Kinsale to attack Spanish shipping, and among them was Alexander Selkirk. After a year of storms and battles in the Pacific his ship was in a bad way, and he declared he'd rather be put ashore than continue in it. The captain left him on what we now call Robinson Crusoe Island, and sailed on to have the ship sink under him. Selkirk spent five years as a castaway, and altogether had a more lurid life than the mercantile hero of Daniel Defoe's novel.
The English built up their navy facilities here but Kinsale harbour was too small for late-18th century vessels, let alone the metal steamers of the Victorian age, thanks to the sandbar at its entrance and the rocks known as "The Sovereign's Bollocks". So it was never a major port of emigration, and didn't attract industry and development; the navy base moved to Cork. This means that Kinsale's higgledy-piggledy narrow old streets have been preserved, lined by colourful houses.
Tourist Information is by the main town car park and bus stop on Pier Rd. It's open Tu-Sa 9AM-5PM.
Get in
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By road from Cork take N27 towards the airport then R600 to Kinsale. From Bandon, take N71 towards Inishannon, then R605 to Kinsale.
See Cork for long distance public transport. Bus Éireann 226 runs hourly from Cork railway station, Parnell Place bus station and Cork airport, taking an hour to Kinsale.
Local Link Bus 253 runs from Clonakilty via Timoleague and Ballinspittle to Kinsale. There are 5 M-Sa and 3 on Sunday.
Local Link Bus 254 runs from Bandon, with 6 M-F, 5 Sa and 3 on Sunday.
1 Town car park at the foot of Market Square is the turnaround stop for the buses.
Get around
[edit]Walking should get you everywhere.
Bus 253 runs four times a day to Charles Fort.
The local taxi company is Cab 3000 (+353 21 477 3000).
See
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- Town centre has colourful narrow streets.
- 1 Kinsale Museum, Old Town Hall, Market Square, ☏ +353 21 477 7930. Tu-Sa 10AM-5PM. Small museum depicting local history. When the ocean liner RMS Lusitania was torpedoed by a German U-boat in 1915, most survivors and bodies were taken to Cobh. But some bodies were brought here and the inquest into the sinking was opened. Adult €5, conc €3, child €2.
- 2 Desmond Castle, Cork St. Closed. Well-preserved tower house built circa 1500 by the Earl of Desmond as a custom house. After 1641 it became a prison mostly for Spanish and French captured at sea — in 1747 a fire killed 54 French prisoners — and later for Americans. It continued as the town jail for another century and was a workhouse during the 19th century famines. In the 1990s it was done up as a museum (including for a time as the "International Museum of Wine") but has been closed "for renovation" at least since 2010.
- St John the Baptist is the RC church, on Friars St near the castle. It's a simple building of 1832.
- St Multose is the C of I (Anglican) church, 100 m west of the museum. It's named for a 6th century monk, and its oldest parts are from 1190.
- Carmelite Abbey is just a stump of masonry in the small graveyard on Abbey Lane. The Carmelites remain active and their church is a block north of St John the Baptist.
- 3 Charles Fort, Summercove P17 XK68, ☏ +353 21 477 2263. Daily 10AM-5PM. Impressive star-shaped fort, built 1677-82 over the earlier Ringcurran Castle, and named for the restored King Charles II. It became known as the "new fort", complementing the older James Fort across the harbour. It was built to repulse seaborne attack but was overlooked by higher ground and vulnerable to landward attack. That enabled John Churchill, 1st Duke of Marlborough, to capture town and fort in 1690 in the Williamite Wars. Various repairs and additions were made over the next 200 years and it remained a British military base until Irish independence in 1921. It then fell derelict before being restored from the 1970s, with an exhibition area in the former commander's quarters. Adult €5, conc €4, child €3.
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- 4 James Fort. This was built 1602-07 after the siege of Kinsale, over the earlier Castle Ny-Parke, and named for King James I. It had a good range of fire over the harbour approaches from its "blockhouse" and remained in use when Charles Fort was completed. But after the siege of 1690, the new fort became the military base and James Fort fell derelict. You can stroll round anytime. It's only 200 m from town across the river but you have to cross the bridge, making it 3 km and a scenic turnaround point for walkers and joggers. Free.
Further out
[edit]- The Sovereign Islands are a pair of sea-stacks seen from the headland south of Charles Fort. They're a nature reserve and boats may not land, not that they could.
- Old Head of Kinsale is a spade-shaped headland 15 km southwest of town. The Signal Tower (daily 10AM-5PM), built in Napoleonic times, is a small museum with memorabilia of the Lusitania. In the tower's grounds is a memorial to the 1198 victims of the sinking of the ship, 12 miles off the head, in 1915. On the "blade" of the headland are a ruined 13th-century de Courcey castle and a lighthouse. The head, beyond the ruins of the castle tower, is privately owned and occupied by the Old Head Golf Links. No routine public access but there are two Open Days a year.
- Garretstown and Garrylucas are beaches west of the head. They're exposed, so they get surf, but may be too rough for family bathing.
- The Wild Atlantic Way is a motoring itinerary that starts at the Old Head. Follow it west on R604; at Ballinspittle the "castle" is just a grassy mound. Keep west on R600 to Timoleague. The headland and coast beyond are described under Clonakilty; only another 2400 km to go to reach the other end in Donegal.
Do
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- Sailing: The visitor marina is at Castlepark, across the bridge near James Fort. This was the old navy dockyard, with sailing vessels careened on the beach, but nothing remains of that era. Their regatta is in July of odd-numbered years.
- Kinsale Beach is sandy but small, across the isthmus east of Castlepark marina on the road to James Fort.
- Kinsale Harbour Cruises, ☏ +353 86 250 5456. Apr-Oct daily. Hourly cruises round the harbour, they don't venture into the open sea. The embarkation point is opposite Actons Hotel. Adult €16, child €8.
- Kinsale Angling sail daily for fishing or diving.
- Kinsale Golf Club, Farangalway P17 FD73 (5 km north of town on R607), ☏ +353 21 477 4722. White tees 6519 yards, par 72.
- Kinsale RFC play rugby union in the amateur leagues at Garraha, 3 km east of town. They host a Rugby 7s tournament in May.
- Ghost Tours start from the Tap Tavern May-Sep Su-F at 9PM. They last 75 min and the only real horror is the bad puns perpetrated. Adult €15, child €7.50.
- Historic Stroll Kinsale starts Mar-Oct daily at 11:15AM from the Tourist Office by Town car park. It lasts 90 min.
- Kinsale Arts Weekend is a weekend in mid-July.
- Gourmet Food Festival is early October.
Buy
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- Lidl is the main supermarket, on Troopers Close 500 m east of town centre, open M-Sa 8AM-10PM, Su 9AM-9PM.
- Centra is north side of Town car park, open M-Sa 7AM-10PM, Su 8AM-8PM.
- Kinsale Crystal, 2 Market St P17 DK74, ☏ +353 21 477 4493. M-F 9AM-6PM, Sa Su 11AM-5PM. Artisan shop specialising in deep cut lead crystal. You can also buy from their website, they dispatch worldwide.
- Kinsale Silver, 4 Market St P17 Y448, ☏ +353 21 477 4020. M-Sa 10AM-6PM, Su noon-5PM. Handmade silver jewellery with Celtic themes.
Eat
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There's enough cheap and cheerful places, but for a small town Kinsale has a surprising number of gourmet restaurants.
- Dino's, 4 Pier Rd P17 AY96 (south of car park), ☏ +353 21 477 4561. Daily 1-9PM. Chain diner for fish and chips on the harbour, eat in or take-away.
- Saint Francis Provisions is Med fine dining on Short Quay west side of the car park, open Th-Sa 5-10PM, Su 1-5PM.
- Max's Seafood, 48 Main St P17 XY07 (block south of car park), ☏ +353 21 477 2443. M-W F Sa 6-9PM. French-Irish style, great reviews all round for food, service and ambiance.
- Finns' Farmcut is a steak house at 6 Main St, open Tu-Sa 6-9PM.
- Rare is the restaurant within Blue Haven Hotel at 3 Pearse St, open Th-Sa 5:30PM-midnight.
- Jim Edwards, Market Quay P17 H590, ☏ +353 21 477 2541, [email protected]. Daily noon-9PM. Popular bar and restaurant with good steaks and seafood.
- Malay Kitchen on Short Quay is open W-Su 3:30-8:45PM.
- 1 Bastion, Main St P17 NX44, ☏ +353 21 470 9696. Th-Su 5:30-11PM. Upscale restaurant with modern European cooking.
- The Supper Club, 2 Main Street P17 A076 (by Bastion), ☏ +353 21 470 9233. Tu-Sa 5:30-10PM. Modern European fare.
- Cobra Tandoori is opposite Supper Club at 69 Main St P17 VW60, open daily 4-10:30PM.
- 2 Fishy Fishy, Main St P17 CY80, ☏ +353 21 470 0415. W-Su noon-9PM. Spacious indoor, balcony and terrace seating - best reserve, it's very popular.
- Bruno's is an Italian at 37 Main St by Fishy Fishy, open F-Su 5-9PM.
- 3 The Black Pig, 66 Lower O'Connell St P17 FX54, ☏ +353 21 477 4101. W-Su 5:30-11:30PM. Modern European food.
- 4 Man Friday, Scilly P17XY33, ☏ +353 21 477 2260. Tu-Sa 5-11PM. Steaks, seafood and stuffed duck served in a gem of a restaurant with harbour views.
- 5 Bulman Bar, Forthill, Summercove P17 KF57, ☏ +353 21 477 2131, [email protected]. M Tu 4-11:30PM, W Th Su 12:30-11:30PM, F Sa 12:30PM-12:30AM. Seafood and seasonal produce in a great setting near Charles Fort. The bar often has live trad music.
Drink
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- The Greyhound (Market Bar), Market Square P17 PV44 (by museum), ☏ +353 21 477 2889. M-F 5:30-11:30PM, Sa noon-12:30AM, Su noon-11PM. A proper old Irish pub established in 1690. Has a mixed crowd from rugby/hurling fans to hippies. Tables outside, umbrellas and heaters for smokers. Usually sport on TV and a good selection of music if not.
- Dalton's is opposite Greyhound at 3A Market St.
- Kitty Ó Sé’s, 1 Pearse St P17 DR67 (corner of Market St), ☏ +353 21 470 0053. Daily 1-11:30PM. Trad bar with home cooked Irish food and music.
- The Tap Tavern, 9 Guardwell P17 AF50 (below Saint Multose Church), ☏ +353 21 477 3231. Su-Th 5-11PM, F Sa 5PM-12:30AM. Friendly pub with music on Thursday nights.
- Oscar Madisons is at 7 Main St P17 RX85, open daily noon-11:30PM.
- The Spaniard, Scilly P17 Y156 (opposite Man Friday), ☏ +353 21 477 2436. M-Th 11AM-11:30PM, F Sa 11AM-12:30AM, Su 12:30-11:30PM. Pleasant old-world pub with food on Scilly Peninsula.
- 1 Kinsale Mead, Barracks Lane P17 XV10, ☏ +353 21 477 3538, [email protected]. Daily 11AM-5PM. Ireland's first meadery in 200 years. Tours are a mix of mead history, honey tasting, mead making and mead tasting. Tour €20.
- Blacks of Kinsale distil gin, whiskey and rum, and brew a range of ales. The distillery doesn't offer tours, but you can sample their product at pubs around town.
Sleep
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- Blue Haven is central at 3 Pearse St P17 NA72. Loud late night music from the bar.
- Old Bank Townhouse, 11 Pearse St P17 K722 (50 m west of Perryville House), ☏ +353 21 477 4075. Comfy welcoming guesthouse. B&B double €300.
- 1 Perryville House, Long Quay P17 RK16, ☏ +353 21 477 2731. Great reviews for this classy hotel. Some street noise. B&B double €300.
- 2 Actons Hotel, Pier Rd P17 PX80, ☏ +353 21 477 9900, [email protected]. Well-run hotel overlooking the harbour, squeaky clean, with pool and fitness centre. B&B double €200.
- 3 Trident Hotel, World's End P17 NT38, ☏ +353 21 477 9300, [email protected]. Spacious smart hotel with harbour views, restaurant and nautically-themed bar. B&B double €250.
- White Lady Hotel is at 36 Lower O'Connell St P17 X665, a block northwest of Trident. Mixed reviews.
- 4 Friar's Lodge, 5 Friars St P17 VP77, ☏ +353 21 477 7384, [email protected]. Simple B&B with 18 large rooms, a bit old-fashioned but welcoming and dog-friendly. B&B double €180.
- The Old Presbytery, 43 Cork St P17 AE80 (opposite Desmond Castle), ☏ +353 21 477 2027, [email protected]. Self-catering accommodation. From €300 / night.
Connect
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As of August 2025, Kinsale has 4G from Vodafone and 5G from Three, but a poor patchy signal from Eir.
Go next
[edit]- Cork city needs several days to explore, and another 8 km northwest is the famous castle at Blarney.
- Cobh and Crosshaven near Cork are small ports like Kinsale, but they'll feel very busy and urban by comparison.