Glengarriff (Gleann Garbh, "rough glen") is a village at the base of the Beara Peninsula of County Cork in southwest Ireland. It's in an inlet of Bantry Bay, and became a tourist resort in the late 19th century. In those days tourists arrived by paddle steamer, and there was no road across the hills to Kerry until a tunnel was hand-hewn through. The resident population in 2022 was 211.
Get in
[edit]By road follow N71, which runs from Bantry to Glengarriff then to Kenmare in County Kerry - for large vehicles check dimensions for the tunnel. R572 winds along the coast to Castletownbere.
Bus Éireann 236 runs from Cork via Bandon, Enniskeane, Dunmanway, Drimoleague and Bantry, taking 2 hr 20 min to Glengarriff. There are four M-F, three Sa and two on Sunday; two per day continue to Castletownbere.
Bus 270 runs from Killarney: most turn back at Kenmare but three a day cross the hills to Glengariff, Bantry and Skibbereen. It runs all year.
Local Link Bus 232 runs five times a day from Castletownbere to Glengariff, Bantry, and out along Sheeps Head peninsula to Ahakista and Kilcrohane.
With your own boat, Glengarriff harbour has safe anchorage.
Get around
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The forest nature reserve and Bamboo gardens can be reached on foot. It's a long hike to Barley Lake, but a firm trail for a mountain bike.
Harbour Queen Ferries sail from Glengarriff Harbour to Garinish Island gardens. They sail Apr-Oct daily, every 30 min from 9:45AM to 3:45PM, with the last return from the island at 5:30PM. The crossing takes 10-15 min, the boats sometimes meander round islets where seals are hauled out. The fare, adult return €16, does not include admission to the gardens. Dogs and wheelchairs can be carried.
Blue Pool Ferry has similar schedules and fares.
You need a vehicle to explore the Beara peninsula on both the Cork and Kerry sides. No local taxi, it would have to come from Bantry.
See
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- 1 Blue Pool is the inlet where the Glengarriff River flows into the bay, and the adjacent wooded parkland south side of the village. Like the Danube, it's only blue by reflected light, and is usually dark brown from moorland run-off into the river if it's been raining, which is often. Some boats to Garinish Island sail from here, others from the harbour.
- Church of the Sacred Heart (Roman Catholic) is at the west end of the village, built 1902 in neo-Gothic.
- 2 Ilnacullin Gardens, Garinish Island, ☏ +353 27 63447. Apr-Oct daily 10AM-5:30PM. Reached by a 10-min ferry ride, the island was originally a military outpost, with a barracks and Martello Tower built against Napoleonic invasion. In 1910 it was sold to Annan Bryce, who commissioned English architect Harold Peto to design a house and garden. Thousands of tons of topsoil were imported to this bare, rocky island and shelter belts were planted, creating a micro-climate in which a number of tender plants thrive. The house was never built, and the Casita and Italian garden remain the centrepiece. There are also fine herbaceous borders. The ferry fare doesn't include admission fee. Adult €5, conc €4, child €3, cash only.
- 3 Bamboo Park has semi-tropical plants similar to Ilnacullin. It's open daily all year 9:15AM-7PM, adult / child €5, dogs permitted.
- 4 Glengarriff Woods have 1000 acres of sessile oak and birch forest. The glen was first systematically planted in the 18th century; in the 20th it was planted with conifers for logging, but since the 1970s was restored with oak. The main entrance is 2 km from the village on N71 towards Kenmare, but there are multiple access points. There are way-marked trails but no vending or toilets, and barbecues are not permitted. The woods are free to access 24 hours.
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- 5 Ewe Experience is a sculpture garden on N71 higher up the valley. It's open June-Aug daily 10AM-6PM, adult €10, child €6.50. Assistance dogs only. The trails are steep and unsuitable for wheelchairs or strollers. It closes permanently after the 2025 season.
- 6 Barley Lake is a corrie lake west of the forest. A steep winding lane leads to the corrie rim: you don't need 4WD in dry conditions, but don't bring a bulky vehicle. Otherwise hike.
- 7 Turner's Rock Tunnel, 180 m long, takes N71 under the crest of the hills into County Kerry, framing the view as you emerge. It's only 3.65 m high so large vehicles can't pass through. See Kenmare for sights on the Kerry side.
- Beara Peninsula: see Castletownbere for sights further west all the way to Dursey Island.
- Sheep's Head is the peninsula south across the bay. See Bantry for sights there.
Do
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- Outdoors Ireland is a centre for land-based activities such as rock-climbing, and sea-kayaking and canoeing. They're next to Eccles Hotel and open daily 6AM-9PM.
- Glengarriff Golf Club is on N71 1.5 km east of the village. It's a nine hole course, two circuits makes 4514 yards, par 66. The actress Maureen O'Hara (1920-2015) came to live in this area and promoted the club, establishing an annual tournament.
- Beara Way (Slí Bhéara) is a 206-km walking circuit from Glengarriff to Castletownbere, Dursey Island, Kenmare and back to Glengarriff.
- West Cork Sailing Centre is at Adrigole to the west, see Castletownbere.
- Wild Atlantic Way is a driving route from Cork to Donegal. The local section is obvious, following the coast road from Bantry to Castletownbere and Dursey Island then north side of the peninsula to Kenmare.
- Don't squish a slug unless you're sure it's not the rare, protected Kerry slug, found only in this area and around Finisterre in Iberia. See County Kerry#Do for slimy details, the yellow spots identify them.
- Jim Dowling Uilleann Pipe and Trad Festival is in June.
Buy
[edit]- Spar (O'Shea's) on Main St stocks essentials and groceries, and has an ATM within. It's open M-Sa 8:30AM-7PM, Su 9AM-6PM.
- Quill's Woollen Market on Main St has knitware and gifts. Its open daily 9AM-6PM.
Eat
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- Lough Avoul Inn, Main Street P75 YK71, ☏ +353 27 63440. Daily noon-11:30PM. This cafe bar gets mostly good reviews for food and service, but standards inconsistent.
- Black Cat opposite Casey's on Main St does fish & chips, pizza and so on. It's open daily noon-11PM.
- Lahori Kebab next to Casey's also does pizza and fish & chips as well as kebabs. Cash only, and open M-Th 4-11:30PM, F-Su 3PM-midnight.
- La Crêperie Gourmande is a food truck outside Quill's, open daily 10AM-5PM.
Drink
[edit]- Blue Loo, Main Street, ☏ +353 27 63167. Su-Th noon-midnight, F Sa noon-1AM. Great trad pub with beer garden.
- Bernard Harrington's opposite Lough Avoul Inn is open daily noon-midnight.
Sleep
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- 1 Glengarriff Caravan & Camping Park, Castletownbeare Rd P75 KD57 (R572 one km southwest of town), ☏ +353 27 63154. Well-run, well-equipped site with bar and restaurant, open April-Sep. Tent €45, hook-up €50.
- O'Shea's is a basic but clean campsite right next to the Glengarriff Park.
- 2 Glengariff Park Hotel, Main St, Glengarriff P75 YC84, ☏ +353 27 63000. Decent B&B in village centre, though breakfast disappoints. B&B double €150.
- Glengariff Hostel, Main St, Glengarriff P75 DP90 (opposite Park Hotel), ☏ +353 85 777 7837. Clean, friendly efficient place in village centre. 10 bed mixed dorm, 6 bed female dorm and private rooms. Dorm €40.
- Casey's Hotel, Main St P75 E925 (100 m west of Park Hotel), ☏ +353 27 63010. Friendly comfy mid-range hotel with good bar and dining, open April-Oct and partially in Nov. B&B double €150.
- Perrin Inn off Main St 50 m east of Park Hotel gets miserable reviews.
- 3 Eccles Hotel, Harbour, Glengarriff P75 A072, ☏ +353 27 63003. Upscale place established in 1745, good reviews for comfort, service and cuisine. The spa isn't much rated. B&B double €150.
- Island View is a B&B along Monteensudder, 100 m west of Eccles Hotel.
- 4 Bay View, Reenmeen East P75 ED81, ☏ +353 83 063 5288. Charming guesthouse 1 km east of village. B&B double €150.
- Jewel Lodge is a spa with apartments 1.5 km east of the village. It's basically self-catering but they provide a breakfast basket.
Connect
[edit]As of August 2025 Glengarriff and its approach roads have a basic mobile signal from Three and 5G from Eir, but no signal from Vodafone.
Go next
[edit]- Castletownbere is in the west of the peninsula, an area dotted with prehistoric stones and small islands.
- Bantry to the east is the obvious base for the Beara peninsula south. Come this way also for Gougane Barra monastic site up in the hills.
- Kenmare in County Kerry, north across the ridge, brings you to Killarney and the Ring of Kerry.