The GR 21 is a coastal footpath in France, in the Grande Randonnée network.
Understand
[edit]This 186 km (116 mi) route takes in the entire Alabaster Coast, its glorious chalk cliffs and snug harbour towns. It tracks north-east from Le Havre to Le Tréport on the Norman/Picard border.
Prepare
[edit]No permits needed — just show up and walk. The clifftop paths and rocky coastal terrain mean this is strictly a backpack-only trail; wheeled luggage, strollers, and wheelchairs won't get far. Good hiking boots are a must (ankle support will save you on the rocky sections), and give the cliff edges a wide berth — erosion is ongoing and the ground can crumble without warning. After heavy rain or frost, some sections can be treacherous, so check conditions before heading out.
Eat
[edit]You won't go hungry on the GR 21. The route hops between coastal towns and villages, and you can count on finding somewhere to eat or stock up pretty much every day. Leave the camping stove at home.
Drink
[edit]With towns never too far apart, most hikers just grab drinks at cafés and restaurants along the way. There are also streams, springs, and the occasional well, though you'll want to filter anything from natural sources before drinking it.
Sleep
[edit]Each stage of the trail has hotels, guesthouses, or campsites to choose from, so you don't need to carry a tent unless you want to. Wild camping isn't allowed. In summer, book ahead — the popular spots fill up fast.
Climate
[edit]Normandy weather is famously moody: sunny one moment, windy and wet the next, whatever the season. May through October is generally the most enjoyable time to walk, but the trail is doable year-round. Pack a windproof and waterproof layer no matter when you go, and don't forget sunscreen for the bright days on the open clifftops.
Get in
[edit]The trail begins in Le Havre.
Walk
[edit]
After leaving Le Havre, the trail ascends to Montivilliers. The next part of the route is along the cliffs of the Pays de Caux; a notable sight is Étretat, which is known for its chalk formations. The trail goes through many resorts and villages and eventually leads to Le Tréport near Eu.
19.4 km
4 hr
358 m
20.3 km 4 hr 257 m
15.4 km 4 hr 466 m- 2 Étretat — near many cliffs on the shoreline, this town inspired many of Claude Monet's paintings.
21.7 km 5 hr 504 m- 3 Fécamp — beach, port, and "Bénédictine Palace".
20.2 km 5 hr 375 m- 4 Saint-Valery-en-Caux
20.2 km 4 hr 206 m- 5 Veules-les-Roses — the location of ancient water mills.
14.4 km 3 hr 174 m
21.5 km 5 hr 555 m- 6 Dieppe — brick architecture, harbours, and many seafood restaurants.
26.4 km 6 hr 668 m
7.1 km 2 hr 169 m- 7 Tréport — cliffs, fishing port, and seaside resort.
Like other long-distance paths, the GR 21 lends itself to much shorter walks, with highlights around Étretat and Dieppe being especially popular.
Stay safe
[edit]Keep well away from the cliff edges — the chalk crumbles unpredictably, and the drop is fatal. Stick to the marked path, especially after rain or frost when the ground is at its most unstable. If a section is closed or diverted, follow the signs rather than pushing through.