Fira (Greek: Φηρά) is the main town and cultural centre of Thira, the largest island in the Santorini archipelago. It boasts a variety of museums, art galleries, cathedrals and picturesque churches to explore, as well as the island's widest selection of shopping and dining.
Understand
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The city derives its name from an alternative pronunciation of "Thira", the ancient name of the island itself. Fira became prominent in the late 1700s, as reduced piracy in the Aegean allowed islanders to move further out from existing castles, and eventually became Santorini's administrative centre. Until recent times, its port was the island's main connection to the world.
Every day during the summer, Fira is bustling as cruise ships from all over the Mediterranean come and go. When the rest of the island mostly closes up for the winter season, Fira remains open and active, though much quieter.
Get in
[edit]By plane
[edit]Santorini Airport (JTR IATA) is a few km to the southeast, about a 10 minute drive.
Most people hire a taxi from there, or have their hotel arrange a private transfer. There is also frequent bus service between Fira and the airport, the route takes 10-15 minutes each way.
By boat
[edit]Ferries dock at 1 Athinios Port, where buses meet each arrival to transport passengers to Fira (trip takes 15 min and costs €2.3); taxis are also available. All vehicles climb a very steep, winding road (it makes seven 180 degree turns) to leave the port.
Other boats may dock at the 2 Old Port (Gialos), which seems not to have changed over the last 50 years. There is no road from the Old Port, as it is at the bottom of the steep caldera cliffs, which poses a problem for anyone who wants to actually go beyond the docks:
- The 3 Santorini Cable Car connects the port to the town centre. The lift has a capacity of 1,200 passengers per hour, so there are rarely waiting lines except when cruise ships arrive. Journey travel time is 3 minutes. Perfect for families with children as each gondola carries up to 6 passengers. Single journey costs €10.
- The 4 Karavolades Stairs is the alternative, a paved stairway that climbs up 200 m over 588 steps. It is also known as the Donkey Trail, because the best way up it is via a donkey ride. Obviously there are weight limits for riders. The donkey trail takes a lot longer than the cable car, but is a good option if there are long queues at the base station. Single journey costs €10. You are also free to walk (ignore any scammers demanding a ticket), but the stairway is winding, narrow in parts with only low walls, covered with slippery donkey poop, and the donkeys will make no attempt to avoid you.
By bus
[edit]KTEL Santorini, the public bus service, connects all points of the island with Fira, costing €2.00-2.80 one way (2025), depending on the route. This is probably the only cheap thing you'll find on the island considering the buses are comfy and air conditioned! Tickets can be purchased on the bus, with cash only — so bring some coins. The fare collector can (usually) make change.
5 Fira bus station is the transit hub of the whole island, where bus services from Oia, Kamari, Perissa, Akrotiri, and the airport arrive. Most routes run hourly.
On foot
[edit]There is a signposted hiking trail along the caldera rim north from town all the way to Oia, which takes about 2.5 hours.
Get around
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Map of Fira
The limited space on the caldera ridge has led to a very condensed city layout with many narrow streets that are only accessible by foot, motorcycle, or donkey. Exploring the city by foot is the most convenient, because of the many steep paths and steps, and also the most rewarding because the centre is dotted by souvenir shops and art galleries. There are only a few streets suitable for motorised vehicles, and almost no parking opportunities.
To the north, Fira flows into the quieter village of Firostefani, with a little more charm than the highly-commercialized city centre. To the south is an inland "suburb" of Karterados. There's no views here, so it is cheaper and has a more "locals" feel.
By quad bike
[edit]A great way to get around the (small) island is by hiring a quad bike (ATV) from numerous agencies in the town. It is a better value than taxis and more fun than a bus.
See
[edit]Museums
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- 1 Museum of Prehistoric Thira, Τ.Κ. 84700, ☏ +30 22860 23217, fax: +30 22860 23217, [email protected]. 08:30-15:30 daily, closed Tuesdays. The story of Akrotiri and other Neolithic and Bronze Age settlements is vividly told through a collection of colorful and artistically-detailed artefacts. Don't miss the collection of vibrant wall murals recovered from Akrotiri. €10. Free entrance on 6 Mar, 18 Apr, 18 May, and the European Heritage Days (last weekend of September).
- 2 Folklore Museum, ☏ +30 698 704 8274. M 10:00-17:00. Museum about the evolution of lifestyle and living on the Santorini archipelago, with displays featuring artisan crafting, a cobbler, blacksmith, distillery, winery, and even a mine underground. All lifestyles from cave houses to modern day typical white dwellings are covered. A guided tour is a necessity to get the most out of a visit, which takes about 45 minutes. €5.
- 3 Archaeological Museum of Thera. Tu-Su 08:00-15:00. It houses artefacts from Proto-Cycladic culture of the 3rd millennium BC, and continues on to the Classical period. Full €2, reduced €1.
- 4 Megaro Gyzi Museum, ☏ +30 2286 023077, [email protected]. May - Oct. An ethnographic museum with a collection of maps, landscapes, engravings, and dresses of the Cycladic Islands from the 15th to the 19th century. It is housed in the Megaro Gyzi mansion dated to the 17th century. It also features an exhibition of old manuscripts from the 16th to the 19th century, as well as painting and photographs of Santorini.
- 5 Roger Tourte Exposition, ☏ +30 2286 023016. Exhibition of work by French artist J.R. Tourte, who moved to Greece before the outbreak of the Second World War and toured the Cyclades until his death in 1972. His work consists of watercoloured scenes of all the major Cycladic Islands along with maps drawn by the artist. Most of the scenes show the authentic islands before they became tourist attractions. The exposition area is in tunnels underground, and are pleasantly cool during hot summer days.
Religious architecture
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- 6 Catholic Church of the Dormition (The Three Bells of Fira) (Τρεις καμπάνες των Φηρών). 24/7. This church famed for its iconic three bells, blue dome, and picturesque views which make it one of the most photographed places on the island. The history dates back to the mid-17th century when two cave churches were built into the-then solid cliff face, but these were destroyed as the cliff receded. An infirmary was built in its place which attracted Jesuits who lived on the site until the land was given to the Diocese of Santorini. The current church was built in 1757 and underwent many expansions and refurbishments, for example in 1958 when it was damaged by an earthquake. Hikers following the Fira to Oia coastal path will pass the Three Bells along their way. Free.
- 7 Dominican Convent, ☏ +30 2286 022420. Founded in 1595, it is the oldest Catholic nunnery in Greece, but the current building dates from 1864. The church was consecrated in 1825 as the Church of the Virgin of the Rosary, but was severely damaged during the 1956 earthquake and subsequently repaired. The sanctuary behind the altar in the church is the icon of Our Lady of the Rosary with St. Dominic and St. Catherine flanked by statues of St. Joseph.
- 8 Orthodox Metropolitan Cathedral. Cathedral built in 1827, traditionally styled with an outside courtyard space and nicely decorated interior. It was heavily damaged by the 1956 earthquake but subsequently restored to its former glory. Free.
- 9 Cathedral of Saint John the Baptist (Καθεδρικός ναός του Αγίου Ιωάννη του Βαπτιστή). Parish of the Roman Catholic Church in Fira, serving as the cathedral of the Roman Catholic Diocese of Santorini founded in 1204. The baroque church building in blue-gray and cream colours was built in 1823 and restored in 1970 after the earthquake of 1956.
Do
[edit]- Watch a sunset from the caldera rim, ideally while enjoying dinner or a drink.
- Go to the Old Port if you didn't come in that way; see #By boat above. There is almost nothing to do at the Old Port except to take a boat or take a couple of pictures, but the ride down and up can be fun.
- 1 The White Door Theatro, ☏ +30 2286021770, [email protected]. Theatre famous for its play The Greek Wedding, a comedy set in 1940s Greece.
- 2 Santorini Zen Spa, ☏ +30 6985824393, [email protected]. 09:00 - 20:00 daily. Massage and relaxation.
- 3 Kokkalo, 25 Martiou Street, ☏ +30 2286025407, [email protected]. 14:00 - 00:00 daily. Restaurant offering cooking courses to teach yourself how to cook Greek cuisine the traditional way.
Walks and hikes
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- Agiou Mina Street. This street goes along the crater rim through Fira, from the south part of town to the cable car. It provides the stunning views of Fira that you came to see. You can walk either north or south, but walking north has the advantage that the main part of Fira is in front of you. Just be careful of the donkey poop!
- Fira - Oia Hike. By far the most spectacular hike on Thira is the 11 km trail along the crater rim to Oia. It offers some breathtaking views over the caldera, and the other islands of the archipelago. At a moderate walking pace, the hike takes about 3 hours. The trail starts northward from Agiou Mina Street and is well-marked; you'll see a few "To Oia" signs before leaving town. Going from Fira to Oia is more uphill, with a climb of over 300 m, so the reverse direction is considered a bit easier. Free.
Boat trips
[edit]- 4 Nea Kameni. The barren "New Burnt Island", only 2 km in diameter, is the summit of the current volcano in the centre of the caldera. The island is the result of volcanic eruptions during historic times; the oldest rock still at the surface is from about 1570. The volcano is dormant today, but eruptions have occurred as recently as 1950, when the newest lava dome was extruded. Volcanologists from the Institute for the Study and Monitoring of the Santorini Volcano continuously monitor the activity levels. It is only a 10 minute boat journey from Fira Old Port; there are daily boat tours from numerous tour agencies. A 1 km hiking trail over uneven gravel leads to active sulpher vents and the 130 m summit. There are no supplies, shade, or toilets on the island so come well prepared; bring loads of water! Proper hiking shoes are a necessity. €5.
- 5 Palea Kameni. The youngest island of the archipelago, "Old Burnt Island" has a single inhabitant, Sostice Arvanitis, who is a goat herder and keeper on the island. The points of interest on this small barren island are a church and a hot spring tucked in a small bay that is a common swimming hole for caldera boat cruises.
Buy
[edit]- 1 MATI Gallery, ☏ +30 22860 23814, [email protected]. 10:00 - 00:00 daily. The gallery of Greek artist Yorgos Kypris, established in 1990. On display is a selection of artworks including sculptures and installations, drawings, and jewellery. Free.
- 2 Leoni Schmiedel, ☏ +30 2286 023770. Art gallery focusing on collages on the theme of Santorini, made with natural materials such as sand and driftwood. Free.
- 3 Krystalla Art Gallery, ☏ +30 2286 021226, [email protected]. Fine arts gallery with numerous paintings by local artist Nicholas. Free.
- 4 Pablo Cruzz Art, ☏ +30 2286 022972, [email protected]. Art gallery, jewellery, and bracelets.
- 5 Art of the Loom Gallery, ☏ +30 2286 021617, [email protected]. Glass art and jewellery souvenirs.
Eat
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In the early evening the passengers of the cruise ships return to their vessels and cafes become much more relaxed.
- 1 Nikolas, Erythrou Stavrou (straight up the pedestrian mall (Danezi) and take the first right), ☏ +30 2286024869. A local eatery preserving traditional Hellenic cuisine. The staff is efficient in explaining the Greek menu board and provide suggestions if necessary. Service is a departure from the overly warm receptions with most tourist traps as it is quick, efficient, and sufficiently friendly. Must tries include the Horiatiki (Greek) salad, moussaka, beef stew. Ask for "horta", a plate of simple boiled greenery ordered by the locals and not on the menu as it is both time-consuming and difficult to prepare on a mass-scale. Though the dish may not look overly appetizing when it arrives at the table, sprinkle on some fresh lemon juice from the provided wedge and add some salt to bring the traditional veggie dish alive. Appetizer €4, mains €8-14.
- 2 To Ouzeri (at the Fabrika shopping centre, next to the Cathedral), ☏ +30 22860 21566. 13:00 - 22:00 daily. George and Iordana, the owners, welcome warmly all their guests. You will find a great variety of traditional Greek dishes using the local products of Santorini, Greek salad, green salad with Chorotyri, Mousaka, Ouzo meatballs, Soutzoukakia.
- 3 Parea (two blocks from Theotokopoulou square on M. Danezi street), ☏ +30 2286 025444. Offers a wide range of cheap, tasty food including salads, sandwiches, moussaka, a variety of gyros, pizza, spaghetti, omelets, and both savory and dessert crepes. Great for travelers on a budget and the service is relatively prompt by comparison to many of the other restaurants in Fira. Gyros are €1.70, Greek salads are €4.50. They also deliver from 10:00 - 24:00.
- 4 Falafeland, ☏ +30 2286036359, [email protected]. noon - 21:30 daily. Falafel and healthy food with plenty of vegetarian and vegan options.
- 5 Romantica, ☏ +30 2286 022862. 11:00 - 01:00. Seafood restaurant in a romantic setting, great for couples.
- 6 Katsaboo, Agiou Athabaskan 101, ☏ +30 2286 022575, [email protected]. 08:00 - 22:45 daily. Great Greek restaurant but a bit on the pricey side. Try the feta with sesame and honey.
- 7 Convivium, Δανέζη Μ, ☏ +30 2286 028111, [email protected]. 11:30 - 22:45 daily. Italian cuisine and seafood.
- 8 Los Tres Amigos (The Three Friends), Δανέζη Μ, ☏ +30 2286 036869, [email protected]. 11:00 - 02:00 daily. Mexican cuisine.
- 9 No Name Restaurant Santorini, 25is Martiou 25, ☏ +30 2286 033582. 11:00 - 23:00 daily. Mediterranean and Greek grill restaurant.
- 10 Salt & Pepper, 25th March St, ☏ +30 2286 022747. 13:30 - 15:30; 19:00 - 23:00 daily. Traditional Greek restaurant run by a Santorini couple, taking pride to source as many ingredients from local farmers and fishermen, and only using Greek olive oil and feta cheese. This restaurant offers a culinary experience, but at rates comparable to other restaurants in Fira. This is a small restaurant, so reservations are absolutely necessary.
- 11 Fu Li Hua, 25is Martiou 303, ☏ +30 2286 022699, [email protected]. 11:30 - 23:30. Chinese restaurant on the main square offering a wide range of dishes, including authentic Chinese dishes, friendly service.
- 12 Triana Tavern, 25ης Μαρτίου 405, ☏ +30 2286 024005, [email protected]. 12:00 - 23:00 daily. A cosy tavern with great service, open year-round.
With caldera views
[edit]- 13 Lombranos, Ormos Firon, ☏ +30 2286 025173, [email protected]. 11:3 - 21:00 daily. Seafood restaurant in the harbour, with a view over the caldera.
- 14 Kaliya Reimagined Food & Drinks, ☏ +30 2286 023807. 08:00 - 01:30 daily. Fine dining restaurant.
- 15 The Vine, Υπαπαντής 2, ☏ +30 2286 025554. 12:00 - 00:00 daily. Cocktail and wine restaurant.
- 16 Selene Restaurant, ☏ +30 22860 22249. April-October. Offers Greek and Santorini cuisine in accordance with the current gastronomical trends, based on experimentation and the use of local products. Open for lunch & dinner.
Drink
[edit]- 1 Two Brothers Bar. An internationally famed watering hole, catering to the tourist party crowd.
- 2 The Highlander. A Scottish bar. Happy Hour from 21:00-22:30
- 3 Koo. Cool nightclub to hang out after drinking at the other bars and to close out the night.
- 4 Anhydrous Winery, ☏ +30 22860 23140, [email protected]. 11:00 - 20:00 daily. Winery, restaurant, and spa. Fun note: "anhydrous" is a Greek word that means "does not contain water"!
- 5 MarinEra, Υπαπαντής, ☏ +30 2286 025026, [email protected]. 12:00 - 22:00 daily. Cocktail bar.
- 6 Nektar Lounge, ☏ +30 2286 024047. Cafe and bar with a fantastic view over the caldera.
Sleep
[edit]- 1 Adamant Suites, ☏ +30 22860 23432. A small private complex consisting of six private suites, all different in size and shape.
- 2 Aria Suites, ☏ +30 22860-28650. Boutique hotel with a view of the volcano and Acrotiri.
- 3 Athina Suites, ☏ +30 22860 24910. A short walk from downtown. Mounted on a rock top. Offers a panoramic view of the Caldera cliff and the volcano.
- 4 El Greco Hotel, ☏ +30 22860 22052, fax: +30 22860 24945.
- 5 Panorama Hotel, ☏ +30 2286022481, fax: +30 2286023179. The hotel on the caldera faces the sea and the volcanoes. 12 studios, one Greek villa and one honeymoon suite.
- 6 Summer Time Pension (100 m from the centre of town), ☏ +30 22860 24313. €83-110.
- 7 Villa Evgenia (300 m from town centre), ☏ +30 22860 22575. €70-120.
- 8 Anteliz Hotel and Suites, Markou Nomikou 89, ☏ +30 22860 28842. Four-star hotel on the top of the cliff ridge along the Caldera path, overlooking the Caldera Gulf
- 9 Villa Stella, ☏ +30 22860 23517. Family-owned hotel in a quiet district 7 minutes from the centre. Clean rooms with sea views. €35-40.
Firostefani
[edit]- 10 Cliff Side Suites, Firostefani, ☏ +30 22860 22141, fax: +30 22860 22187. 23 rooms and suites with all four-star conveniences. Respecting the Aegean Architectural style, the complex promotes the design and comfort of the locality, combined with modern colors. Includes on-the-edge-of-the-rim swimming pool with views of the caldera plus spa services and outdoor heated Jacuzzi.
- 11 Mill Houses Suites, Firostefani, ☏ +30 2286027117, fax: +30 2286025400. The exterior architecture is in harmony with the geological peculiarities of the landscape.
- 12 Sofia Hotel, Firostefani. Economy family-run hotel.
- 13 Afrodete Hotel, Firostefani, ☏ +30 22860 22161. Afrodete Hotel offer seaview rooms 500 m from Fira Town. from €30-100.
- 14 Dana Villas, Firostefani, ☏ +30 22860 22566, fax: +30 22860 22985, [email protected].
- 15 Santorini Luxury Villas, Firostefani, ☏ +30 22860 22050, +30 22860 23520, fax: +30 22860 22142, [email protected]. from €365.
Stay safe
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