Annapurna Circuit Voyage Tips and guide

The Annapurna Circuit is a trekking route in the Annapurna mountains of the Himalayas in Nepal. The Annapurna Circuit is considered one of the best treks in the world, though road construction is threatening its reputation and its future as a classic trek. Yet no one disputes that the scenery is outstanding: 17 to 21 days long, this trek takes you through distinct regional scenery of rivers, flora, fauna and above all, mountains.

See also: Trekking in Nepal

The Annapurna Circuit trek is usually a counter-clockwise loop from Besisahar to Nayapul, and reaches its summit halfway at Thorung La Pass, at a height of 5,416 m (17,769 ft). Some trekkers have trekked clockwise, but be warned: summiting Thorong La from West to East is incredibly difficult, a vastly steep and lengthy climb up more than 1.5 km in elevation gain, over 8-10 km in horizontal distance, up unstable and dangerous rocky gullies with upper sections having no marked trail (especially if it snowed), low oxygen, and no tea houses or camps save for one or two abandoned stone huts. Most trekkers are exhausted even from hiking down this section of the trek, so choose wisely - but intrepid trekkers have hiked it clockwise.

There are four regions that are passed through on the traditional counter-clockwise trek; Lamjung, Manang, Mustang, and Myagdi. Lamjung and Myagdi, of the lower elevations, are both predominantly Hindu and with lush green subtropical valleys with villages and terraced farming. Manang and Mustang are of the higher elevations and are predominantly Tibetan Buddhist. The Manang people are Gurung (not Tibetan descent) and are very proud of their unique cultural heritage. People of Mustang identify themselves a lot closer with Tibet and the Mustang region has actually been part of Tibet in history. Mustang also is one of the last places in the world to view the ancient Bonpo Religion in action. Villages to note for Bonpo are Thini and Lupra near Jomsom, and Nargon near Kobang. The trek also goes through Buddhist villages and Hindu holy sites, most notably just after you come down from Thorong La Pass into the dusty town of Muktinath. Its temple is a revered holy site for both Buddhists and Hindus. Just before you get to Manang, the small community of Braga (Braka) has one of the oldest (and most picturesque) monasteries in the region.

The route goes past the following mountains: Manaslu (an over-8,000-meter peak), Langtang Himal, Annapurna II and IV, Annapurna III and Gangapurna, and, of course, Annapurna I and Dhaulagiri, passing through the world's deepest gorge in between those two over-8,000-m peaks. Poon Hill, at the end of the trek, affords views of those two mountains, and of South Annapurna and Machapuchare, the "Fishtail Mountain."

Before you go on the trek, and every day before you set out to hike, check on the status of the road and trails. Construction of the road (and certain sections of the trail) has interfered with trekking, with some parts being dangerous to navigate. Locals tend to talk up the road and downplay its negative aspects. Road walks in Nepal are very unpleasant, and unhealthy, due to the large amounts of powdery dust that tend to be kicked up from passing jeeps and buses. It is always better to take the primary red trails (look for the red/white flags painted along the trail), and if you're up for an adventure, try the blue/white secondary trails - although these trails are often very steep and challenging (especially the one east of Syange/Jagat up to Chipla). Ask your guest house proprietor if he/she has any information on the current status of the trails/road before you set out each day.

Guides are legally required as of 2024 and can be hired easily in Pokhara or Kathmandu through many agencies, but in practice many trekkers still hike the Circuit without one. Police checkpoints such as in Dharapani and Koto typically check only the ACAP permit, not TIMS, and do not hassle unguided hikers, though solo hikers may get extra scrutiny; it is advisable to hike with at least one other person. Hire a guide if you lack navigation experience or confidence, and consider a porter if you carry heavy luggage. As a tea-house trek that goes village to village without the need to bring food or camping gear, guides and porters are not strictly necessary for most people, though many still choose to use them and it supports the local economy.

This is a "teahouse trek," meaning there are villages with lodgings to stay in and restaurants to eat in along the entire route. You are expected to eat dinner and breakfast in the same place where you are spending the night. Prices of rooms are often inexpensive because of this (Rs 100 to Rs 500 for a room); lodge owners tend to make their money on the food and drinks they are selling you than on the room where you are sleeping. However, in the higher elevations, especially around the Pass, expect to pay Rs 800 for a room. Note that most rooms have two or sometimes three single beds (so you could share if you are willing), and occasionally rooms have only one double bed. The bed linens, especially the blankets, are often not washed (especially at higher elevations), where they are usually just "aired-out". If this bothers you, bring a sleeping bag or a liner, but you don't need a sleeping bag at any point of the trek (as of 2024) if you can relax your standards of cleanliness. Also note that although the temperature is cold, you can always ask for more blankets. Even in the winter, a sleeping bag is unnecessary. Instead, bring an emergency blanket if you are still concerned.

Also, be prepared for all manner of bathrooms. Sometimes you'll get a modern flush toilet with private access, other times you'll have to venture out in the cold to use a smelly public squat toilet. Even so, all lodges have running water. However, it may not always be hot water. Typically, a solar shower will give you a luke-warm 'power shower' if it's been a sunny day. Better yet is to ask if the guest house has gas showers, which are on-demand, propane-heated hot water. Otherwise, especially in the winter, you might have to ask for the "bucket" shower (a humbling experience for most westerners used to the comforts of modern showers). Another thing to do is ask if the water pipes run through the fire in the dining room or kitchen, as once the fire is going you'll be steaming with the best of them!

Bring along a sufficient amount of money for the entire trek, though apparently you can use cash traveler's checks or exchange US dollars in Jomsom or Chame. There are no ATMs on the trek after Manang (there is an 'IME' ATM in Manang and an ATM in Muktinath then Jomsom (July '23)). A day on the lower villages of the trek can cost as little as Rs 1500 (food and accommodation only). A day in the higher points of the trail can cost Rs 4000 (in 2024). You can do the trek for about USD 20 a day if you go independently, and probably cheaper if you budget your spending well, and share rooms.

Budget for Rs 1500 per day if you are a very modest spending trekker, though those on a budget can probably get by with even less. People who want to live it up a little should allow for more, perhaps double. Despite the efforts of ACAP there could be variations in pricing that will surprise. For some reason the region between Tal and Chame is more expensive than from Chame to Manang which is more difficult to access! As the prices seem to be fairly set throughout each village though do not concern yourself with hunting around a village looking for a cheaper place and try not to stop at the first lodge you see so that trekkers are spread through the village. Quite often the nicest lodges are on the way out of town.

In 2024, Rs 50,000-60,000 was enough for a very bougie trek from Besisahar to Jomson, per person, including beer and all-you-can-eat meals.

The traditional starting point for the Annapurna Circuit is Besisahar. This town is accessible from Kathmandu (KTM ^IATA) by a tourist bus, which is a six to eight-hour journey departing daily from Kathmandu's new bus station, or by a private jeep or car, which is a faster but more expensive option.

To get to If you arrive late from Kathmandu, it is worth stopping in Khudi after about 7 km and 2 hr from Besisahar for a cheaper, quieter first night and a cooler start.

Due to road extensions in the area, many trekkers now choose to take a jeep from Besisahar further into the valley. This allows them to start their trek from villages such as Syange, Jagat, or Chame, which can save several days of walking.

Map of Annapurna Circuit

The best part about this trek is the varied scenery it has to offer. You start from tropical forest in Besisahar, see terminal moraine near Manang and then move past the snow line across the Thorung La and then to the barren landscape of lower Mustang and Muktinath.

The traditional trek starts at Besisahar, on the eastern side of the loop, hiking north and west to Manang and Thorong La. This portion of the trek follows the Marsyangdi River upstream, to its source near the village of Manang. To get there, several days of up-hill hiking are required. From Dharapani to Kagbeni you will be walking the Annapurna section of The Great Himalaya Trail, a long distance trekking route that connects Nepal from East to West. After you reach the source of the Marsyangdi, you leave the dusty jeep road behind and hike up an ancient walking trail, up, up, up until you summit Thorong La pass - a grueling day of hiking - and then you descend back down the other side to Muktinath and Kagbeni, where the trail meets up with the Kali Gandaki River (and the western section of the Circuit). Despite the poor condition of the road, the western side of the trek is said by many locals to be more beautiful, though, especially at stops like Tatopani (which literally means hot springs).

Distance

17 km

Duration

6 hr

A hot, jungly opener on a mix of footpaths and rough road beside the Marsyangdi. Walking this stretch is pleasant enough that taking a bus to Bhulbhule is not recommended, since the road is potholed and buses are slow, uncomfortable, and infrequent. From 28.23111184.37751 Besisahar , continue 2 km and about 1 hr to Bhulbhule (840 m), then 4 km and 1 hr 15 min to Ngadi (890 m), where Bob & Mom’s sells bush-grade “green” and dawn views of the snow peaks are good. Finish with a steady 4 km, around 1 hr 45 min, up to 28.34384.4062 Bahundanda (1310 m). The first full day to Bahundanda is often brutally hot and ends with a long climb.

Distance

12 km

Duration

4 hr

Terraces and open valley views lead 5 km in about 1 hr 30 min to Ghermu (1130 m), which many prefer for the night since it sits in an open bowl. Continue 3 km and about 1 hr 30 min to 28.41444484.4063893 Jagat (1300 m), a densely built village in a narrow gorge where limited airflow can affect air quality and make the atmosphere feel more confined. From Jagat it is 4 km and about 1 hr to Chamche (1385 m). These lower stages are good candidates to combine so you can spend more time acclimatizing higher up.

Distance

15 km

Duration

6.25 hr

Climb steeply on steps and footpaths for 5 km and about 2 hr to Tal (1700 m), a broad village on the riverbed beside a waterfall. The trail then undulates 4 km in about 1 hr 30 min to Karte (1870 m) and a further 2 km in about 1 hr to 28.52277884.3561114 Dharapani (1900 m), a solid overnight with views into both canyons. Continue 2 km in about 1 hr to Bagarchap (2160 m) and 2 km in about 45 min to Danaqyu (2200 m). Much of this stage uses proper trail rather than the main road, with short, sharp pinches in and out of side gullies.

Distance

12 km

Duration

4 hr

The higher variant stays on trail more of the way, rising through woodland 6 km in about 2 hr 15 min to Thanchowk (2570 m), then traversing 4 km in about 1 hr to quiet Koto (2640 m), and finishing with an easy 2 km in about 45 min into 28.55194484.2408335 Chame (2710 m). Koto is small, clean, and calm compared with bustling Chame, with a Tibetan Buddhist monastery and wide mountain vistas.

Distance

9 km

Duration

3.75 hr

The gentler valley option has more road underfoot but straightforward gradients. From Danaqyu it is 1.5 km and about 1 hr to Latamarang (2400 m), then 5.5 km and about 2 hr to Koto, and a final 2 km and about 45 min to Chame. Quick access to services makes this a good foul-weather choice.

Distance

14.5 km

Duration

5 hr

Pleasant forest walking and big valley views lead 7 km in about 2 hr to Bhratang (2850 m) and 6 km in about 1 hr 30 min to Dhukur Pokhari (3240 m). The upper path then climbs around 1.5 km in about 1 hr 30 min to 28.61589984.1531656 Upper Pisang (3310 m). There is a trail between Lower and Upper Pisang; Upper Pisang has quaint old-style lodging and an active Tibetan Buddhist monastery with sunrise and sunset chants. Villages along this high line are full of character and the outlooks on Annapurna are among the best of the circuit.

Distance

19 km

Duration

4.5 hr

An easier valley traverse via Bhratang in about 2 hr (7 km) and Dhukur Pokhari in about 1 hr 30 min (6 km), then about 1 hr for the final 6 km to 28.61527884.1497227 Lower Pisang (3250 m). Expect a steadier grade, more time on the road, and fewer high-level panoramas than on the upper route.

Distance

19.5 km

Duration

6.5 hr

A balcony traverse with constant views and a stiff switchback climb reaches Ghyaru (3730 m) after about 4.5 km and 1 hr 45 min. Roll 5 km in about 1 hr 45 min to Ngawal (3680 m), then drop 2 km in about 45 min to Humde (3330 m). Continue 6 km in about 1 hr 45 min to Bhraga (3450 m) and 2 km in about 30 min to 28.66666784.0222228 Manang (3540 m). Taking this high line and sleeping in Ghyaru or Ngawal helps acclimatization, and both villages are beautiful; because they lie higher than Manang, you can often skip an extra rest day if you sleep up here.

Distance

15 km

Duration

4.25 hr

The quick valley option reaches Humde (3330 m) in about 2 hr over 7 km and Bhraga (3450 m) in about 1 hr 45 min over 6 km, then 28.66666784.0222229 Manang (3540 m) in about 30 min over 2 km. Manang is a pleasant place to rest and clean, with small “movie houses.” A map of local walks is beside the central stupa, you can see the origin of the Marsyangdi River from here, and classic acclimatization hikes include Ice Lake. An excellent side trip to Tilicho Lake can be done from Manang, returning to the main trail at Yak Kharka; allow up to 3 days. Tilicho sits at about 4900 m, which makes it a good acclimatization outing.

Distance

15 km

Duration

6.5 hr

Alpine meadows give way to sparser slopes as you climb steadily 9 km in about 3 hr to Yak Kharka (4050 m) and a further 1 km in about 1 hr to 28.73906583.97303110 Ledar (4200 m). Continue 5 km in about 2 hr 30 min to 28.77693983.97268411 Thorung Phedi (4450 m). The path narrows across some landslide-prone traverses where it pays to go steady and give pack animals space. Many trekkers use time saved on the lower stages to add one or two acclimatization days here or earlier in Manang or Upper Pisang, using day hikes to prepare for the pass.

Distance

15 km

Duration

6.25 hr

From High Camp around 4900–4950 m, climb about 5 km in 2 hr 15 min to Thorung La (5416 m), then make a very long descent about 6 km in 2 hr 45 min to Charabu (4230 m) and a further 4 km in about 1 hr 15 min to 28.81666783.87083312 Muktinath (3800 m). High Camp has plenty of beds and wide mountain views. Muktinath marks a return to fuller services and has important Hindu and Buddhist temples. South from here the vehicle road toward Nayapul is often potholed and dusty, so use foot trails whenever possible. It is also possible to mountain-bike from Muktinath toward Tatopani; rentals are available in Muktinath and Mustang Mountainbikes has been operating since 2011. A typical bike journey to Tatopani takes 2–3 days. Mustang is on its way to becoming a major downhill biking destination, thanks to its beautiful scenery and the fact that one descends from 4000 m to 1200 m altitude along this jeep road or single-tracking it on alternative walking trails. Either way, it is advisable to stay off the jeep roads whenever possible, especially in upcoming sections, as they are narrow, steep, and dangerous.

Distance

19 km

Duration

5.25 hr

The more atmospheric high trail runs through Jhong (3540 m) in about 1 hr 30 min over 3 km and then to Kagbeni (2800 m) in about 45 min over 6 km, a maze of narrow alleys at the mouth of Upper Mustang. Continue down the Kali Gandaki through Eklebhatti (2740 m) in about 1 hr over 2 km and on to 28.78447883.72985613 Jomsom (2720 m) in about 2 hr over 7 km. Expect strong afternoon headwinds and dusty sections. If you prefer to break the day, inexpensive and charming overnights are possible in Jharkot, Purang, or Jhong. From Muktinath some trekkers take motor transport; a truck to Jomsom costs about Rs 200 and earlier jeep rates were around Rs 710.

Distance

19 km

Duration

6.5 hr

The easier descent follows mixed trail and road through Jharkot (3550 m) in about 1 hr over 1 km and Khinga (3355 m) in about 45 min over 3 km to reach Kagbeni (2800 m) in about 1 hr 45 min over 6 km. Continue along the broad, often windy valley floor through Eklebhatti (2740 m) in about 1 hr over 2 km and on to Jomsom (2720 m) in about 2 hr over 7 km. Kagbeni has hidden alleyways and a European-like charm and many stay a couple of nights. The stretch between Kagbeni and Jomsom can be very dusty with frequent traffic; some take a jeep to avoid the worst afternoon winds. Arriving in Jomsom can feel odd since the town is spread out; most guesthouses are on the far side near the airport and it takes about 15 minutes to walk through town.

Distance

23 km

Duration

7 hr

Follow the Kali Gandaki on a road-and-trail mix through 28.752583.68583314 Marpha (2670 m) in about 1 hr 30 min over 6 km, continue about 6 km and 1 hr 30 min to Tukuche (2590 m), then about 4 km and 1 hr to Kobang (2640 m), 1 km and about 1 hr to Larjung (2550 m), 3 km and about 1 hr to Kokhethanti (2525 m), and a final 3 km and about 1 hr to 28.63527883.60583315 Kalopani/Lete (2535 m). Scenery is big-valley and beautiful, although dust and traffic are common. From Jomsom you can fly to Pokhara in about 20 minutes for roughly USD 100, or travel by bus for about USD 20 on a multi-stage journey that usually arrives after dark: Jomsom to Ghasa, change for Ghasa to Baglung (or Gharkhola), then change again for Baglung to Pokhara. Many cyclists also continue from here toward Tatopani.

Distance

20 km

Duration

7.75 hr

Descend 7 km in about 3 hr to Ghasa (2010 m) and 4 km in about 1 hr 30 min to Kopochepani (1480 m). Continue 2 km in about 45 min to Rupsechhahara (1500 m), 3 km in about 1 hr to Dana (1400 m), and 4 km in about 1 hr 30 min to 28.583.63333316 Tatopani (1200 m). The vehicle road is wide and fairly level, which makes progress quick but dusty and less scenic. A footpath alternative branches left, climbing steeply away from the road to regain a proper trail; this way is harder but more rewarding. Tatopani means “hot springs” and the baths make a fine finish after a big day.

Distance

11 km

Duration

4.5 hr

A stair-heavy descent drops through Ulleri (2010 m) in about 1 hr over 2 km and Tikhedhunga (1500 m) in about 1 hr over 2 km, then eases beside the river to 28.30977783.77485917 Birethanti (1025 m) in about 2 hr over 6 km and on to Nayapul (1070 m) in about 30 min over 1 km. Poon Hill is famous for dawn crowds; a quieter hill on the opposite side toward Chomrong offers similar views. If you keep following that ridge you reach Chomrong after two days, linking into the Annapurna Base Camp trek. 28.39861183.69916718 Ghorepani (2870 m) serves as a base for Poon Hill and other local walks, and this area is usually closed from July to mid-September during the core monsoon.

Naar-Pho Valley was opened to foreigners in 2002 and only a comparatively few tourists have visited the area so far. The area has a totally Tibetan character and the two main villages 28.77384.2728919 Phugaon and 28.68107884.19863120 Naar are both located at over 4000 m altitude. A trekking permit is needed for this restricted area, and it must be arranged through a trekking agency. It is also compulsory to have a guide, and as there is not much tourism infrastructure to speak of, most groups visiting the area choose an old style camping trek with porters, cooks etc. Entrance to Naar-Pho is from Koto (before Chame) and exit is via Kang La pass 5300 m to Ngawal. A side trip to Naar-Pho requires 9 days if two nights are spent in both Phugaon and Naar. As hiking from Koto to Ngawal takes normally 2 days along the AC, a side trip to Naar-Pho adds about 7 days to the total trekking time.

The 28.68333383.8566671 Tilicho Lake is one of the highest lakes in the world at 4920 m and requires 2-3 days from Manang. Walk 3 hr to Khangsar, some maps will show a path along the south side of the valley, but this path is old, unused and wrecked by landslides, stick to the northern side.

You may be confused by people referring to the upper and lower path: there are actually three different paths. Two paths leave Khangsar, the lower one is (more) landslide prone and has no teahouses, use the upper one. About 45 min after Shree Kharka the path splits. The path upwards involves a lot more climbing and descending and is unsafe (the signpost to it is crossed out and has "Danger" scratched on it). Take the path downwards. Some people refer to this downwards path as the "lower path", causing confusion with the "even lower" path. Be aware that the path recommended above is marked as only a minor trail on some maps.

Out of Khangsar take the upper path 40 minutes to a monastery and a further 20 minutes to Shree Kharka, with two tea houses where you can have lunch or spend the night. There is another teahouse about 20 minutes after Shree Kharka.

Three hours on from Shree Kharka you will reach Tilicho Base Camp, with three teahouses and another under construction.

The lake is reached by walking three hours up from the Tilicho Base Camp at approximately 4100 m. It's a tough, steep, consistent climb and will be by far the highest you've been at this point in your trek. Snow leopards are around in this area but you are more likely to see blue sheep and yaks. It's possible to reach base camp and climb to the lake in one day from Shree Kharka but it's best to stay overnight at base camp, then head up very early in the morning to get the best weather; it gets very windy after 11:00 and the clouds can start forming as early as 08:00. Being at the lake can be very cold: be sure to bring warm clothes. There is a teahouse there where you can get food and tea, but no accommodation except in an emergency. The teahouse may not open in low season, the staff come up from base camp each day, so check there before heading up.

It takes 1½ hours to get back to base camp. Once down you could stay the night, or continue 3 hr back to Shree Kharka (or 2 hr 45 min back to just before Shree Kharka). The next day it is possible to walk directly to Yak Kharka via Old Khangasar so you do not have to backtrack all the way to Manang, there is a clear signpost at a split in the path just after Shree Karka. It takes approximately 4hrs to get from Shree Kharka to Yak Kharka.

Your safety on the Annapurna Circuit hinges on respecting the altitude. Acclimatize by ascending gradually, staying well-hydrated, and never ignoring the early signs of Acute Mountain Sickness like headaches or nausea; if symptoms worsen, you must descend. Equally important is preparing for the unpredictable mountain weather, so pack essential layers including waterproof and windproof gear, even if the forecast seems clear. Finally, maintain your health by drinking only purified water and carrying a basic first-aid kit. Responsible trekking is key to safely experiencing the majesty of the Himalayas.

Many trekkers choose to finish their trek in Muktinath or Jomsom, either taking a very bumpy jeep or bus ride from Muktinath to Pokhara, or a small plane from Jomsom. Another option is to ride down by mountain bike from Muktinath or Jomsom, turning those bumpy roads into a positive thing for tourism. If you still have the energy for more trekking, Pokhara is the gateway to the Mardi Himal trek, a short ridge route to viewpoints below Machhapuchhre.

At the western end of the trek by Nayapul, several options are available, including adding on a trek to Poon Hill and/or the Annapurna Sanctuary trek.

You can access the Everest Base Camp trek in Sagarmatha National Park, reached by a short flight to Lukla, or venture to the Numbur Cheese Circuit in Ramechhap District, a quieter loop around Numbur Himal with village homestays, yak pastures, and expansive valley views.